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Water, Water, Water But None to be Found

November 8, 2023

9 days crossing the most parched territory. No rain has fallen for 8 months in this region. Rivers that normally flow from season to season have not seen water since 2018.

Where are we? Even for me that’s a difficult question. I am usually really good at having a mental bird’s eye view of where I am and where I’m going. However, this region baffles me.

The Blue dot is where I am currently – Kasane. The green icons represent where we have been.

This is a smaller scale map giving a better idea of where we are in relation to Zimbabwe to the east, Namibia to the north and west and South Africa to the south.

The gold stars are places we have been in Botswana and the green are places we still want to see

The area we have been travelling to is the repository of all the water flowing in from the Angolan hills. The water flows south along the Angolan/Botswana border, finally disappearing somewhere between the Chobi River and the Kalahari desert in Botswana’s southwest region.

The landscape has been sparse, and at the end of the winter season, there are few trees with any greenery. The rainy season has started, and we are plagued by threatening black skies in the late afternoon with viscious looking lightening and thunder. But rain? Non-existent or none….a few drops hit the top of the tent and disappear or evaporate before they hit the ground.

What little water has fallen has produced amazing results. Sitting in a campground for 3 days in Chobi National Park we noticed green shoots growing at the rate of about 12mm/day. Trees are starting to sprout leaves and some water holes are getting replenished.

Some areas do experience a deluge for a short period. This presents obstacles for those of us driving through these areas. We have driven nothing but sand roads for 9 days. They are challenging, but I will give full marks to the Toyota Land Cruiser – an amazing vehicle with hi/low 4 wheel drive and a differential that gives the ability to lock all wheels together to drive through deep mud. Tires must be deflated from 3kpa to 1.6kpa for the deep sand. We haven’t got stuck yet and hope never to meet mud that bogs us down to a stop and leaves us as bait for lions!

Here are a few pictures from the last 9 days.

Many gates to go through – paperwork to present, payments to be made but always a pleasant experience
Orange billed hornbill – a constant in most campgrounds and usually came with a friend providing a little laughter and entertainment
Bushman’s paintbrush – a reminder of the Indian paintbrush from western North America – one of the few flowers we saw in bloom
Love baobabs – will travel miles to see these magnificent ancient trees – this was a grove of about 12 and some were in bloom
Lesley with an old friend. A reminder that not all lasts forever!
And a reminder as we head out that without water, you can’t make it
This is the brai where we had placed a nice steak for dinner but an eagle had better ideas and swiped it right off the brai!
As compensation, Lelsley invited a friend for dinner. He later walked right through our campground metres away from the dinner table
It’s hard to motivate anyone when the temperatures between 1200-1600hrs soar into the low to mid 40s
8 Comments leave one →
  1. Shauna Johnson's avatar
    Shauna Johnson permalink
    November 8, 2023 21:19

    Thanks for your news from Batswana! Amazing travel experiences for you all! I’d love to see a photo of you too, Tony!

  2. Fred Bailey's avatar
    November 9, 2023 08:02

    You’ll be ready for next summer on Vancouver Island.

  3. Samantha Lomeli's avatar
    Samantha Lomeli permalink
    November 9, 2023 09:12

    Looks like such a fascinating adventure, thanks for sharing and great photos!

  4. jacklinjerome's avatar
    November 9, 2023 15:18

    Love the Orange Billed Hornbill. Great stories and photos. Don’t get stuck, maybe you guys should’ve packed a couple of bicycles for back up.

  5. Sue D's avatar
    Sue D permalink
    November 9, 2023 23:54

    OK, we want the charismatic megafauna felines, did they accommodate your visit and show themselves?

  6. rosannequan's avatar
    rosannequan permalink
    November 10, 2023 09:19

    Thanks for the update, glad to see everyone is fine and having a good time

  7. El Jefe's avatar
    El Jefe permalink
    November 11, 2023 00:34

    Somebody buy that poor hornbill a drink. Can’t decide if I’d be dead yet were I along on your trip, and I can’t help but feel you’re lagging just a bit on the charismatic feline megafauna.

  8. tom and liz's avatar
    tom and liz permalink
    November 13, 2023 08:11

    Wow, what an amazing trip. The things you are seeing. The places, the trees, the animals. Tom says that the elephant skull would look great in our living room. Omiage? Don’t get stuck in sand or mud!! Take care.

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