Cleared in and running wild
Wow, land at last. We had a dramatic entry to Trincomalee that started with a night entry and being stopped by an unlit, black commando (navy seal) type fast boat and ended with being assigned a supertanker berth for the night.
We were moved the next morning as an incoming bulk concrete cargo ship wanted to tie up to unload. How rude! We ended up tied to a barge and haven’t budged since.
At least if we have to have the mast taken out there is a crane onboard the barge that can easily accommodate us. However, that is not something we are planning on doing.
We did escape from Trinco. We had torn apart our drifter on the sail over to Sri Lanka. There is a sailmaker, UK Sails, in Galle. We packed up the sail and travelling by bus we traversed Sri Lanka starting out on a local, non AC’d bus making our first stop in Kandy, the home of the beginning of tea in Sri Lanka.
View from Sandhu and Anita’s home looking over Kandy
The bus trip wasn’t so bad but it did involve trying to remain in the seat while the driver wildly swerved in and out of the traffic. Luckily we had a large sail to buffer our foreheads from the steel bar in front of us when the driver had to brake suddenly..
Kandy was a great spot to break the journey. We spent two nights at the home of Anita and Sandhu.
Sandhu and Anita
It was a great place situated high on one of the hills overlooking Kandy. They were wonderful hosts treating us to Sri Lankan breakfasts and dinner. We also toured around to tea factories, tea museums and a spectacular botanical garden called Peradeniya.video slide show from youtube
All the different types of Sri Lankan tea
Sri Lankan breakfast at Lily Rosa’s guesthouse http://www.lillyrosa.com
Next part of the journey involved taking the train, Rajadhani express, from Kandy to Colombo. We booked the trip on the Rajadhani express. Don’t be mistaken. This is not an express but rather an A/C coach that’s added on to the regular train. Definitely not an express. Just like everyone else on the other train cars it makes its way along long neglected tracks badly in need of repairs to the roadbed. There were times when even the Rajadhani express train car bottomed out on its springs! That is a little frightening when you are going around a corner.
By the time we got to Colombo it was dusk. We wanted to get to Galle. We arrived at 1750hrs and there was a connecting train leaving for Galle at 1800hrs. We managed to rush off and buy a ticket, get to the platform and waited till 1820hrs when the train arrived and then the ‘Sri Lankan Squeeze’ started. Oh my god. I am sure you have seen pictures of trains in South Asia where people are hanging out the windows and sitting on top of the train. This was a no reserved seat special and was the ‘express’ to Galle.
We managed to get on the train but only just. We were just inside the door to the train. Packed like sardines and desperately trying to remove my nose from someone’s armpit we shunted off down the tracks. 20 minutes later, soaked from sweat, gasping for air and a little traumatized we stopped at a station. ‘What’, you can’t put more people on! Oh yes we can. Connie wanted to get off but we couldn’t move. People were kind and told us that at the next stop a lot of people would get off. Several stops later we were able to move into the carriage and eventually got a seat for the remainder of the 2.5 hour train journey.
It was a shame it wasn’t daylight. The train goes along the coast. Third class train travel means all the windows are open. The evening’s tropical breeze is forced in the window and the smells of Sri Lankan food being cooked in the homes waft through the railway car windows and the evening lights go by in a blur. It was a 2.5hr trip to Galle passing by stations proudly displaying beautifully potted tropical plants and freshly painted station buildings. If it wasn’t for the tropical breeze blowing through the train one would think you were passing through a quaint english train station.
Galle, an alternate harbour for yachts. It’s not a natural harbour and as such, over the centuries, sailing ships have been caught out and sank in the harbour. The Marine Archaeology Museum has some wonderful artifacts on display taken from sunken ships in the harbour. Despite the dangers there was a fort built here by the Europeans in the 1600s and today the walled fort is undergoing a renaissance albeit one driven by international tourist. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site and reminds me most of old Havana but on a much smaller scale. The renovations are ongoing but it is not only attracting foreign tourist but also acts as a haven for wedding photography.
Enchanting
what a special day
After getting our sail repaired we are getting ready to return to Trincomalee
Phuket to Trincomalee
Departure from Thailand was bittersweet. On the one hand we were looking forward to exploring new shorelines but on the other hand we were reluctant to leave new-found friends. From the graciousness and kindness of Greg and Liz, the owners of the home we housesat, to the crazy Swede, Pel onboard Suntess, who kept us laughing and was kind enough to host an American thanksgiving. There were so many others I cannot mention them all but there is Diane and Rob, onboard The Doctor, who painted our wind vane cover; Mark who showed us some of the best of local Thai food restaurants in Khao Lak; Darrell and Loretta who were brave enough to cut the proverbial sailing rope and settle in Thailand; and then the numerous others too many to mention.
We loved our time in Asia. It’ a very different experience than cruising south pacific islands or exploring the haunts of the Mediterranean. We are looking forward to a new continent, Africa, as well as the numerous islands and nation states between Thailand and Capetown.
Who knows what this adventure will entail. To start it off here is a day to day blog of our sail between Phuket and Trincomalee, Sri Lanka.
*To see more pictures of our trip come back to view when I get a better internet connection!
Day One
1200hrs – January 10th
Latitude: 7 46.75
Longitude : 98 08.46
Miles
Departure today was 1000hrs from Nai Harn, an anchorage on the south-west coast of Phuket island.k
Beautiful day with a nice easterly wind pushed us out of the anchorage under sail. Always one of my favourite ways to leave or enter a harbour.
Amazing that we are actually departing after almost 3 years in SE Asia having arrived in the Philippines March 2012. It seems like yesterday that Marcello made Connie a pizza for her birthday while we were anchored in our respective sailboats right where Cyclone Huinan trampled its way through one year later.
Now we are on our way to South Asia and on to the coral atolls of the Maldives and Chagos. We are going to miss our Thai food. There is hardly a place in Thailand where you get a bad meal. Their ancient knowledge of spice mixtures, plant life and fruit make for a tireless cuisine. I don’t know what we are headed towards but am sure we will find pleasure in a new cuisine.
We will miss SE Asia and leave with few regrets. I think the only regret being we didn’t do more land travelling. SE Asia is not a great sailing place but offers numerous places to leave the boat to explore inland. The coastal areas are overfished, overpopulated and over subscribed by tourists. Gems still exist but they require more resources to reach but are rewarding. There are only just a few that I have covered in my blog here.
Day Two
1200hrs – January 11th
Latitude N8 25.2
Longitude E096 27.2
Miles
A night in a washing machine and the day on rinse cycle pretty much sums up the last 24 hours.
The washing machine relates to the times at which we cross current barriers. These are unpredictable and quite violent. The waves suddenly come from all directions and rise to over 1.5 metres throwing Sage around like she’s in a pinball machine or washing machine. We haven’t figured out why these upwellings occur as we are not going over seamounts or sudden changes in water depth. We can only surmise they are caused by large volumes of water transferring from the Indian Ocean into the Andaman Sea and the Malacca Straits.
Connie changing the card in the Garmin. This card will now guide us on the chart plotter from the Andaman Islands to Chagos where we will switch to a new card for East Africa
Then there are the squalls. We just had one tear our drifter apart. The drifter is our light weather sail and we got caught out with the result it tore from leech to luff along a seam. It’s a great loss as we use it a lot but we might be able to repair once ashore.
Sailing with double headsails before we tore apart the drifter i.e. The colourful sail
Day three
1200hrs – January 12th
Latitude N08 53.5
Longitude E094 14.3
Miles
Well, if yesterdays it was the washing machine today is in a barrel going over Niagara Falls. Rain started at 0900hrs as I passed the watch to Connie and the rain did not stop till 1800hrs. Water everywhere but at least it was fresh water. Wind up and down but generally stayed in the southerly quadrant.
Morale not great and it is taking a great deal of effort for even the most mundane task. Snacking continues and a desire to just put ones head down and wish it all away is strong.
Night comes with a bit of relief. The wind stabalizes, the seas are becoming more rhythmic and the sails remain full. Only one period of panic as I realize we are doing upwards of 10knots as we surf along a wave. I think it’s time to reef so call Marcello on deck to assist. I steer while he winds in the genoa and relief is almost instant. We are now doing a sedate 8 knots, less than I go when cycling!
Day Four
1200hrs – January 13th
Latitude N08 58.1
Longitude E093 13.1
Miles
What a change. Morning brought sunshine and a chance to dry out. Towels, cushions, underwear and various sundry items were spread across the deck and in the rigging to dry. Seas calmed down and the wind steadied from the SE allowing for comfortable sailing and a chance to make something good to eat.
Lost a fishing lure to a strike in the early morning. However, on deck, was our breakfast
Well, not exactly. Has to be the smallest flying fish we have found on deck.
Having lost one lure we affixed another and by 1700hrs we had us a tuna. Unfortunately Connie had already prepared a massaman curry for dinner so fish awaits another meal and some for drying and sashimi
Day Five
1200hrs – January 14th
Latitude 09 04.5
Longitude 091 27.1
Miles – 129 nm
A very pleasant night spent at sea with a southerly wind, gentle rollers and a waning moon that rose at 0130hrs and outlined all the clouds. The night was marred by only one squall which thankfully was not on my watch! Poor Connie had to endure a torrential downpour for 30 minutes then on off drizzle for the remainder of her 0300-0600hrs watch.
By late morning conditions improved and we were moving towards our destination and already talking over lunch about what we would do once arrived. Lunch of course was sashimi, cabbage salad and rice. All cooked by our Italian chef, Marcello!
tuna drying in the sunshine. All that was left after straks and sashimi
Sorry did not think of taking a photo until after we finished!
Day Six
1200hrs – January 15th
Latitude 09 28.5
Longitude 090 41.4
Miles 78 nm
What a night. Dark black threatening clouds all around and no wind to help us escape. Six hours we were becalmed with the boat slapping from side to side. We took down all sails as the motion was murderous on equipment all round and most on sails. One other casuality was our self steering.
No easy trick. The boat is moving and someone has to go over the back and fix the self steering. Ended up we both had to go over!
I surmise that when I put it all back together I neglected to tighten everything really well. As a result we had to dismantle a few things before putting it all back together again. I guess the real challenge came in working off the stern of the boat while we were moving. Neither Marcello nor I wanted to be left behind in the Indian Ocean.
The wind came back at 0730hrs but not with a lot of vigor. We are moving at a snail’s pace of about 2 knots. What makes the day though is that we are 30 miles from our halfway point!
Day Seven
1200hrs – January 16th
Latitude 09 30.5
Longitude 089 34.5
Miles 67nm
Okay we are no rocket. Yes it is slow going but that happens. Not often but on this trip seems to be the norm.
Best part of the last 24hrs is that Connie made bread and nothing broke. It’s comfortable sailing with a gentle NE swell and wind around 5-6 knots. Yes, the sails slat around, the mainsail gets put up and down depending on the wind and life onboard goes on. Laundry, washing, swimming, fishing, long conversations and best of all laughter.
Oh yes, then there are hours of reading. Connie is reading Patricia Cornwell’s Dust and I am reading The Kindly Ones by Jonathan Littell. We are obviously miles apart on our literary choices. Marcello is watching movies! Apparently he downloaded 12 into his I pad before leaving Phuket. He’s going to run out of ones to watch though as I think our original estimate of 10 days for the crossing is way off. Marcello is also consuming huge quantities of Japanese soduku.
Day Eight
1200hrs – January 17th
Latitude
Longitude
Miles 108
What an incredible night. Sky packed with stars and in the distance the flashing strobes of planes carrying people back and forth to and from Asia to Europe. Pencil thin strokes in the sky made from meteors entering earth’s atmosphere scattering angel dust over the oceans. Ships travelling across the Bay of Bengal to and from Singapore and Kolkata. Gentle breeze from the north rocking the boat like a cradle with a cool tropical breeze entering all the open hatches. One can’t ask for better sailing conditions.
To top it all off it’s Marcello’s birthday! Started off slowly with fresh-baked bread and expresso coffee making way, later in the morning, for sausages and eggs. A good start for a special day.
The admiral and crew relaxing at sea while the captain swabs the deck and takes photos
Day Nine
1200hrs – January 18th
Latitude N09 44.2
Longitude E 08 35.2
Miles 130
Marcello’s birthday celebrations continue as the day progresses with telephone calls to Italy followed by scotch served in crystal glasses followed by an italian red wine accompanied by pizza. How Italian could we make it? Dinner ended with chocolate cake but I forgot the brandy so will just have to serve that in the morning.
Nighttime brings a new challenge but also signs of getting closer to Sri Lanka. Sri Lankan fishboats start to appear. They do not have regulation navigation lights but rather just run bright white working lights. This makes it difficult to determine the direction they are going. They did scare Marcello. He was on watch and one boat came roaring up to the side of the boat with all its crew gesticulating wildly trying to get us to stop. Marcello called me up and I said just keep going and the fishboat fell in behind us cutting our fishing line and eventually gave up and off they went much to Marcello’s relief.
Ah well, it was another lovely night and the wind started to pick up a little giving a more boisterous ride.
Day Ten
1200hrs – January 19th
Latitude N 09 36.0
Longitude E 083 36.5
Miles 125
Boisterous seas and a stiff breeze until 2400hrs pushed us along at 7-8 knots. Wind slowly died off finally picking up at 0800hrs.
No special events, no celebrations, no astounding revelations…
1 lonely petrel seen with no mate and no other competitors for food. Lonely ocean. There does seem to be an abundance of fish. We are finding numerous flying fish onboard and of a reasonable size. True to their name as we found one high up in a furled sail when we unfurled in lighter winds.
Ah, only 147 miles to go.
Day Eleven
January 20th
1200hrs
Latitude
Longitude
Miles 125
Wow, only 35 miles to go and the sea is flat, the wind gentle and speed not so great. Would love to arrive before dark but no go. We did try running wing and wing but the current took us south faster than the boat was sailing. We are now steering a course of 272 and we are making 233. That’s quite the impact from the south setting current. Great for the next leg as we head south and west to the Maldives.
Setting the Sri Lankan and courtesy flag ready for arrival
2100hrs
Exhausted and hungry we finally tied the docklines. What an evening. We tried to arrive in the outer harbour before nightfall and anchor in s small cove outside the harbour limits. But we were thwarted. A Sri Lankan commando boat roared up to ask if we had permission to enter. Thus began a long sequence of events that saw us being escorted to a remote dock designed for tankers and left for the night miles from nowhere and no clearance from immigration nor customs. All that is supposed to happen tomorrow morning.
What do sailors do on Christmas Day?
I guess sailors do just the same as everyone else on Christmas Day:
Drink
Italian wine courtesy of Marcello to the delights of Connie
Cook
Taste testing
A vegetarian dinner special – Marcia’s speciality
Eat
The Christmas dinner table – Detlef, Evelyn, Darrell and Loretta
Talk
More consultation – Dave and Marcello
Playing with the new toy – Connie and Evelyn
Dave, Marcia, Richard and Lee
Talk on the phone to friends, families and lovers in faraway places
John on the phone to Suzy probably
Joanne on the phone to ….?
Be amorous
An amorous Christmas – Evelyn and Herve
Play with Christmas toys
Richard, Dave, Marcia, Patrick and Marcello hard on work route planning with a new app
And after it’s all over head to the temple
Minding our own business?
So, here we are house sitting minding our own business and relaxing around the pool.
Not us but Joanne and Craig from Invictus Reward relaxing by the pool Christmas Day
The two dogs start shifting and moving away from the garage door growling vociferously. And what slithers in through the garage door but a python!
I’m only joking but the newspaper article from the English language weekly does tell a story of a python being captured in someone’s backyard only a few kilometres from our place.
Phuket News December 24, 2014
Please note the size of the python – 6M long and weighs 80kg! That would make short work of our Lucky and Bluey, the two ‘soi’ (street) dogs we are babysitting.
Season’s Greetings
Work, stop, play…work, stop, play…
Our new hydrovane self steering cover
I can’t believe we are still at the dock at Yacht Haven Marina. I think it’s now been three weeks we have been tied up. At least we are in the water and the boat gently rocks to the occasional wind that kicks up the water or else a power boat goes roaring by creating a wake when I am at the top of the mast.
Talking about masts. I have now completed putting on mast steps. I guess it’s one concession to being an elderly sailor. No longer is it easy for me to lift Connie to the top of the mast and damn near impossible for Connie to get me up there. So what does one do.
There are a number of choices to make and for us I think we have made the right choice. We chose a reinforced nylon/glass step that we were originally going to secure to the mast using monel rivets. However, it turned out to be impossible to use the rivet gun and so I used stainless steel bolts which required drilling a pilot hole, then using a tap creating a thread in the aluminium and then securing each step with 5 stainless bolts. There are 33 steps in total so that means I had to drill 165 holes, tap 165 holes and then dry-fit each one. After dry-fitting I had to undo each bolt and apply Duralac; a compound to minimize the electrolytic action between the stainless steel bolt and the aluminium.
Up the mast for the fifth straight day
After endless hours up the mast in a chair it is finally completed and now we can race up and down the mast doing all the maintenance work necessary which included replacing burnt out bulbs in navigation lights, replacing spreader tip leathers and replacing the mast-head navigation light. We are delighted with the steps and the ease in which we can get to either the spreaders or the masthead.
steps to heaven
STOP
It’s time for a break. We are supposed to be enjoying ourselves but it is hard work doing all this stuff in 30+C heat and full sunshine. That is usually broken with a torrential downpour around 1600hrs that comes with a half hour of 30+knot winds, torrential rain and thunder and lightning. All very dramatic but of course everyone is scurrying around shoving their tablets, smart phones, PCs etc into their ovens to protect them should a boat get struck by lightning, which does happen occasionally.
PLAY
What do we do to enjoy ourselves. Get out teeth fixed (!), entertain visitors
Jeff, Elliott and Connie
go to a movie (The Hunger Games), head to the beach for a massage, go out to lunch or dinner with a friend or just sit on someone’s boat and have a few gin and tonics.
Lorraine and Connie in the galley of Katani getting the appies ready
Graham at rest after a hard day getting ready to leave the next day. Drinks are on the way
Katani – what a boat.
WORK
Okay another day of work – at the bottom of the page I’ve listed all the things we’ve done or have to do. It’s an extensive list and we pick away at it bit by bit without getting depressed about how many things there are still left to do. We also know, though, that the list never really disappears and we still have items that HAVE to be done before leaving Thailand. So plug away….
Connie learning the finer points of winch maintenance and doing a great job
One of the main dismantled winches
The old radar guts. Looks OK to me but…
A sad day. The old radar has bitten the dust. They say it’s too old and spare parts not available. Aaargh – fortunately, or at least for us, someone in the boatyard got hit by lightning. He is replacing all of his instrumentation whether things are working or not. He has an old radar unit that is a few years newer than our old one and which works despite the lightning. We are picking that one up and installing on Sage. Hopefully it works for the next couple of years although we really question the need for it as leaving Victoria 4 years ago there haven’t been many times we have put it into use.
Here is our list of things done over the last 2 months or that still need doing:
New throttle cable****DONE****
Check rigging
Re galvanize chain – *****DONE+****
Replace sw galley intake thru hull****DONE****
Glass over depth sounder****DONE*****
Replace self steering lower bearing, collar and sleeve ***DONE****
Remover cover on windvane and pack new cover for canada****DONE****
End for end main halyard
New cover for steering post*****DONE******
Review and renew abandon ship box DONE
Rebuild fuel injection pump****DONE****
Replace solent stay deck fitting – ******Done********
Get pulpit fixed
Install masthead light IN PROGRESS
Replace light on propane switch
Paint engine locker instrument lid********DONE**********
Replace upper lifelines****DONE*****
Get blade (sail) made
Replace radar********IN PROGRESS********
New Trojan batteries***DONE****
Install mast steps****DONE****
O/b maintenance**DONE******
Replace zincs******DONE****+
Change sump oil
Repair kit for head pump****DONE****
Inspect electronic self steering electrical connections
Install new hatch gaskets needed****IN PROGRESS*****
Service injectors
Install new Batteries – *****DONE*****
Install water shut off valve to dripless bearing*******DONE*****
Test EPIRB -*****DONE****
Install new motor lift*****DONE*****
New kayak cover****DONE*****
Repair fuel injector pump***+DONE****
Repair water pump on engine****DONE****
Paint cockpit locker*****IN PROGRESS*****
Check navigation lights*****IN PROGRESS******
Install new light in galley
Install rope clutch for jib halyard ON ORDER
Renew wire on pulpit navigation light-*****DONE*****
Paint design on new hydrovane cover ***********DONE********
Work is continuing and will be posting more about the ongoing activities.
I do want to thank our special artist who worked on putting the sunflower on our self steering gear. Diana Naggo is the artist and we are so pleased we ran into Diana and her partner, Rob, in Yacht Haven. I think she did a great job of putting the sunflower on.
Rob and Diana by their boat The Doctor
Seabird of the Year
Work, work, work….
From this
What a mess – anti-fouling removed and down to previously done barrier coat
And this
Rudder coverings removed completely
To this
Waxed, barrier coated, primed and anti-fouled. Almost ready for the water
Our workshop. We learnt one of the benefits of a catamaran – makes a great garage – dry, shaded and lots of space
Workshop was under the catamaran next to us until the owners returned
More work…
Yes, a large hole in the bottom of the boat. Was our old, non-functional depth transducer. One more hole in the bottom closed off. Back to the lead line.
Same hole but from the inside of the boat. At this time I have plugged it from the inside but still have to do the outside before Monday
The centreboard pin before cleaning and replacing the wire for lifting and lowering.
New wire for the centreboard
And from this
Was tempted to take with us
To this
Oh, how I love pork.
Oooops – don’t know how this slipped in but it sure ain’t boat stuff
Back to work….
From this
Installing a new solent stay chainplate
and this
Some stainless steel boats rust. The head of this bolt turned separately from the shaft. So what was supposed to be a 30 minute job turns out to be a two hour job!
To this
Ah much better. Rust stains gone and new fittings to make us feel safer at sea
Bau – what a worker. I decided doing the bottom was best left to someone younger!
Bau worked tirelessly for days both taking off and putting on our new bottom.
And from this
I tried to find a picture of our small dodger over the main entrance to Sage. It’s a small dodger that in inclement weather one has the ability to push it forward as it’s mounted with shock cord to allow one to push it forward and slip down below. After 4 years of heavy use and lots of dirty hands pushing it around we found a place here to replace it. Below is a picture of the replacement with many improvements on the old one including an eyebrow to prevent drips into the open hatch if it’s raining and we used bolt rope to hold it down instead of snaps. That’s so when the waves crash into the the beam under sail the water won’t find it’s way under the cover and down below.
To this
A new mini dodger which was replaced a tattered one that was not really that successful. This one looks great and corrects some problems we had with the old one
And then there is the engine. Unfortunately I don’t have a picture of our engine before Connie started work on it. Needless to say she’s looking a little shabby before she sets to with the paint. At least now we are proud to show her off. But does she work – stay tuned as we launch on Monday.
Connie’s hand-painted engine> Someone said we should paint the flywheel ‘pink’!
And this is where we like to spend money
Lee and Connie at Rolly Taskers sail loft
And more money…
Connie and Lee at the chandlery
Rolly Taskers is a candy store for sailors. It has one of the largest sail lofts in the world, a rigging shop and a chandlery for all the baubles sailors like to drop thousands of dollars on. Us? We got off lucky this time. We only spent $100. That was for 20 metres of 4mm wire!
From This
The old rusty chain
To This
Newly galvanized chain flaked out for measuring and loading back onboard before launching
There’s always the unexpected. One day before launch day and we go to try the throttle cable. It’s frozen solid. Rush around trying to figure out where can we buy one, how to install, how to get out the old one etc etc
Reeving a new throttle cable
And why am I so happy looking? Well everything worked with out a glitch. That is unusual. We must be learning patience or something but now we have a throttle cable that smoothly runs. I still have to put it all back together but this time we won!
LAUNCH DAY
It’s pouring with rain but nothing will dampen our spirits. Freedom is just a shot away! We are excited and keen to splash. One glitch – we launched the dinghy the day before and the engine cooling wasn’t working properly. No time to fix so with minimum cooling water making its way thru the system we move forward. Perhaps we won’t need the dinghy but it’s on standby in case the main engine doesn’t work.
Cleopatra rules the waves
So how did it go. Well we got Sage into the water. She floated! Held taught with 4 lines to shore the moment came to test out the engine. Amazing, it started. After 7 months of being idle the batteries helped make the engine roar. That was good but what didn’t work was one pulley on the belt was jammed. The boat filled with smoke, the engine compartment was removed, the smoke billowed out, the belt snap and the order given to stop all engines! In 15 minutes we had a new belt on, the frozen pulley unjammed and we were on our way.
I guess what is the downer in all this is when I looked at the picture of Sage coming out of the water she looked no different from going in! It’s true. All the work done was either below the waterline or inside the boat. For us though we feel better. There are a few new or replaced items as well as maintenance items completed. We feel we are getting closer to moving across the Indian Ocean.
But – work hasn’t stopped. We are now at a dock, tearing apart the engine, installing mast steps, cleaning 7 months of dirt off everything, making sure the rat shit is washed off the deck (yes, lots of rats but none inside), regular maintenance on various equipment, getting my tooth fixed (gum surgery and crown) etc etc
But we’re getting close…
But why are these Thais laughing at us?
Why are all these Thais laughing at us?
Return to Thailand
Getting back to Thailand wasn’t so easy. Or it wasn’t as easy as we thought it would be.
First was a flight from Toulouse to Munich. It got diverted to Stuttgart. We missed our flight to Singapore. Wait a few hours then fly to Frankfurt. Wait another 9 hours and catch the last flight out to Singapore.
Arrive Singapore to find we missed our ongoing non refundable flight to Phuket. Book on Tiger Air but fail to realize that in order to have 20kg each I have to push the button twice. Pay $160 in overweight baggage fees but get into Phuket only 4 hours past our original arrival time. Not bad – the hotel reservation is still good and the rental car is still waiting.
So what’s it like to fly all that way. Well, when I put shaving cream on my toothbrush, lock the key in the room and panic when I can’t find something then everything is normal! I realize I need to slow down and let the jet lag pass by.
However, we want to see Sage. We get a good nights sleep and head off the next morning to see Sage.
Chill the Champagne, Pack the Pearls, Tune up the Bugatti
The title was the cry of the wealthy as they set off for the spas and beaches of Biarritz in the 1920-30’s.
For us, in the early 21st Century, this meant chill the Blancquette de Limoux (4 Euros), pack the Philippine pearls (they might be plastic, who knows), tune up the Ford Fiesta (a cereal box but not a bad one at that)!
Yes, for our last fling in France we decided to head south to the Spanish border and hang out with the glitterati of France.
The Road Trip
We first headed to Limoges to look at china. Yes, France, and in particular, Limoges is famous for china. It was on the way so what the heck we thought it would be a good place to wander the streets looking at china. Yes, it’s just an old fascination that goes back years when I loved making pottery and the life that went along with it. So it wouldn’t hurt to see what Limoges is trying to do to entice younger buyers. There was some incredible pieces but it would not have been a wise move to load up with china considering we were about to set off to sea in 6 months time and all that china would just end up on the cabin sole! So we wandered the streets of this old town and enjoyed the evening.
Limoges – love the windows. How long is this building going to stand?
After Limoges we headed off to see some old sailing friends that we hadn’t seen in 20 years. Jacqueline and Christiane are two sisters who have circumnavigated twice, lived and worked in French Polynesia, rounded the south end of Chile and crossed the Atlantic innumerable times. They just returned from a three-year sojourn to Brazil and back and have their boat up a small canal near Noirmoutier on the west coast of France.
Maris Stella in the mud
Their mooring is a five-minute drive from their house but it does have the disadvantage of not moving through mud at low water. So timing a weekend away has to be done with great care. Who knows perhaps we might get Sage up here one day.
We spent a few days with Jacqueline and Christiane re-connecting to water and the sea. I think living in the Montagne Noir made us seasick for the ocean. It was great to smell the salt water despite the low tides and all the smells associated. We managed to swim in the ocean each day
Our favourite swimming hole
eat seafood and re-ignite an old friendship
Christiane and Connie onboard Maris Stella
Connie and Jacqueline onboard Maris Stella
The Noirmoutier salt pans
Sunrise in Fromentine as we’re leaving
But time was limited. We only had two weeks in which to make our last tour of France and we really wanted to see the west coast and get down to Basque country. So off we went with promises to Christiane and Jacqueline that yes we’ll sail Sage in to Fromentine soon.
Of course, before heading to Basque country we had to see some of the more famous ports of western France. Two particular places we wanted to see where Les Sables-d’Olonne and La Rochelle. They are famous in the boating world. Les Sable d’Olonne is the port where the single-handed round the race starts so we headed there first to walk the harbour wall.
Connie on the breakwater at Les Sable d’Olonne
Check that one. Still time to make it to La Rochelle. Only a few kilometres down the coast we come to the historical town steeped in naval history. What a harbour. It has an amazing entrance that we would love to sail Sage between.
The entranceway to La Rochelle (take note of the flag of Quebec flying from the ramparts?)
So we spent the night walking the streets of yet another old French coastal town admiring the old buildings and sniffing at the wonderful smells coming across on the evening breezes from the numerous tourist restaurants in the harbour.
We made our getaway the following morning heading further down the coast to Biscarosse Plage. But first the ferry across from Royan to Solac sur Mer to avoid having to go in to Bordeaux (we’ll save this for a later date). Always on the look out for interesting boats we were drawn to a couple on the wharf in Solac Sur Mer. We just couldn’t decide which one was better for us.
The go-fast trimaran
OR
The deep keeled ocean racer
In the end we put away the bank book and headed down the coast dreaming of sitting on the beach with a drink in hand to watch the setting sun.
The drink. The sunset. The beach
Okay we do see enough of these in Thailand but we are headed to the Atlantic soon so we just wanted to compare what sunsets in the Pacific and Indian Ocean compared to those in the Atlantic.
So the next day we headed down to Biarritz – the old watering hole for the wealthy of Europe looking for spa treatments, champagne, Bugattis and parties. Things have changed a little over the intervening 50 years but the area has not lost its charm. This is the beginning of Basque country and immediately the architecture changes and I only wish I had the contract to supply red paint.
Red, red and more red
Yes, Basque country is not the place you want to own a home in a paint it blue, yellow or green. Every house without exception uses white with red highlights. I believe it all comes from the love of the pepper called piment d’espellete. It originates from Mexico but is not a hot pepper and is used by the Basques in much of their cooking (and paint, ha, ha) and is a key ingredient in piperade.
But, yes, our goal of Biarritz was reached. It’s quite a change in scenery from the flat country of the west coast of central France. Here is the distance one can see the Pyrenees rising upwards of 1,550 metres. The craggy coastline is a warning to sailors of dangerous entrance-ways to harbours but the weather is gorgeous with sparkling waters and gorgeous beaches.
Southern shoreline of Biarritz
It’s also here that we find our fake Bugatti
It’s actually a jaguar
And our Connie’s pearls
Pearls for Connie
But alas having spent all our money on the Jaguar and the pearls there’s nothing left over for champagne.
We loved this part of the coast and France and will some day come back to explore the Basque region on both sides of the border. We spent a few days here hoping the surf would rise as many of the younger people were doing. It’s a big surfing mecca but for the time we were there it was very tame and no opportunities to enjoy the wilder ocean other than taking a swim each day. We had a great accommodation thanks to Airbnb and our host. Located halfway between Bayonne and Biarritz we were close to the beach, shopping and strolling.
Hotel de Palais
The Hotel de Palais was built by Napoleon 111. It’s a gorgeous located hotel located on the north end of the beach in Biarritz and the interior is done in the traditional French elegant manner.
Connie is checking the menu in the Hotel de Palais
Funny, one day, on a stroll, the back gate to the hotel was open and we strolled in. No-one confronted us although in our shorts and sandals we were obviously not staying there. However, on returning to our apartment one day we tried going in the front gate but were stopped by the guard. Putting on my best stuffy English accent did no good and we were thrown out by the scruff of our necks! Haven’t had that happen before.
Oh well, just to get even we did go down to the pool.
Hotel de Palais pool
I’m sure if I had dipped my big toe in this pool they would have dragged me off to some dungeon somewhere to conduct a serious interrogation. Probably at a place like this below
We did a side trip further down the coast to St Jean de Luz. A lovely quaint old fishing port with a lovely harbour.
Market day in St. Jean de Luz
And what with distinctive Basque fabric designs why not decorate a VW Van
I think, though, what blew me away the most was the church in St. Jean de Luz called Eglise St.-Jean-Baptiste. I was walking along a street and like many other times thought why not just pop into the church for a quick look. We’ve seen many on this trip to Europe and I was not ready for what I was going to see. The video below is of the inside of the church. Warning – there is a lot piercing foghorn-like sound right at the beginning. When I was in the church they were obviously tuning the organ. I was not prepared for this style of church and it really brought home the fact that we were in a very different area of France.
Sunset in Biarritz
Time to move on. We have a few more stops to make before we get on the plane. It’s time to head up into the Pyrenees so we drive up to a place the owner of our accommodation mentioned as a lovely little spot high in the mountains – St . Jean Pied Au Port. It’s a gathering point for those people wanting to head off on the Compestella trail south to Spain. It wasn’t quite what we had been looking for but nevertheless it gave us a taste of what the mountains in this region could offer. St. Jean Pied Au Port is extremely focused on servicing the ‘pilgrims’. It seemed like there were hundreds going in either direction.
St. Jean Pied Au Port as seen from the college above the town
Despite the fact St. Pied Au Port is used as a servicing point for Compestella trail walkers it is quite quaint and beautifully maintained.
Downtown St. Jean Pied Au Port
Main Street
And always the Basque door
Okay off again. This time we are headed back to St. Antonin Noble Val to pick up our suitcase from our friends Evelyne and Herve.
This is the planting that all round-a-bouts should be planted with
We had left the suitcase there at the beginning of July. It’s alway a nice stop there and while there we managed to see a Hollywood movie starring Helen Mirren called Les Recettes du Bonheur. It was filmed in At. Antonin Noble Val and was showing in the local cinema so we couldn’t resist.
The next day, saying goodbye to Evelyne and Herve, we headed to Toulouse for our last night in France. We had one more market to stop at before getting to Toulouse and almost came home with the animal below. He’s so cute and does have a purpose in life as explained to the pig by the cat in the movie Babe
Was tempted to take with us
Toulouse is a great city and it’s another place we will return to someday to explore more. It’s a fantastic place for bicycles with great infrastructure, canals and pedestrian friendly areas. But it’s time to go.
Enough of pearls, Bugattis and champagne. It’s time to return to some work and planning.
Pont Neuf – Toulouse
So, we bid adieu to France.
Sage on sail 