Phuket To Langkawi
Phuket to Langkawi – September 2013
Air conditioning is deadly
September 15
After almost a month on land and living in an air conditioned house we are struggling to make the adjustment back to the boat.
On arrival in Phuket we thought the weather was great. A gentle to strong breeze blew most of the time and we seemed to be enjoying the great weather. Now it is like starting all over again. After sleeping in the house where we could turn down the temperature to a freezing 22 degrees so we could snuggle under the duvet we now sit stripped down, drenched in sweat with all the fans on.
Tonight I am lying out on deck to escape the down below stuffiness as there is no breeze tonight. It comes with benefits though. I can hear the music from onshore with loud rock but over to port I hear what I think is a sad Chinese lament of lost love and karaoke off to the strern. But then off to starboard aft I can hear what could almostbe Celine Dion wafting across the waters from another yacht. Perhaps what I should do is go down below and get my I-pod to tune everything out.
I still stay glued to the deck as the half moon has risen, it is a clear tropical night and the lighted giant Buddha is shining down on the anchorage. We have just come from onshore where we treated ourselves for our last, at least for the time being, meal in Phuket. No we did not have some exotic sounding Thai meal but rather partook in the Sunday roast at Ao Chalong Yacht Club. Me, roast lamb and Connie, in preparation for arrival in a Muslim country, roast pork.
One always meets interesting people at the yacht club. There are many ex pats who drink at the club and then there are the itinerant drifters who drop by on their way from point A to B and then beyond. Tonight we met Earl. An Australian whose work is based in France, currently on a 2 year leave of absence and who just arrived from South Africa via Madagascar, the Maldives and now Thailand soon to move on to Malaysia and Indonesia.
Earl sails an old Colin Archer schooner which he has just refurbished after nearly sinking twice in the Indian Ocean. He basically tore his boat apart, rebuilt all the frames, the deck and the interior.
A labour of love
Needless to say he has spent a fortune but he does work as the skipper of one of the few remaining whaling ships (power) which is 30 metres in length and is currently on the market for sale for $250,000. Yes, despite the pristine condition no-one wants to buy it. Costs close to $500,000/year in maintenance. Anyone interested in buying contact me and your finders fee will be very low.
Well, that’s it for the night before departure. Tomorrow we hope to start off south. We get to test out the newly insulated fridge, the sinks, the new taps, the soap dispenser and get to sit and smell the new teak in the cockpit. We are like kids at the exhibition. Boyit does not take much to get us excited. We must be deprived.
Oh yes, and for the first time ever we are loaded up with 7 movies thanks to the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF), our high speed internet at the house we rented and I tunes for putting their 99 cent special on during the festival. I will not bore you with details on all the movies but we have watched a few excellent movies from the festival..
Oh yes I almost forgot. I have season 4 of Breaking Bad and Season 3 of Mad Men. I know, I am addicted to both and also way late in getting to watch them.
Okay day one:
We still have a few small things to do. First off Connie heads ashore, hops on the bike to go to the market while I head out in the dinghy to get a few photos. Leaving the boat to head ashore we leave the yoga matt out on deck with a few water bottles on top to assure it does not get blown away.
Connie quickly cycles to the local market, picks up a few forgotten items and then calls to say she is ready for pick up. I am still out taking photos but head back, fold up the bike, load Connie’s market treasures and then we take the dinghy over to the beach to collect our last lot of drinking ice. What boat goes to sea without the much required ice for the gin?
I can only hope the ice lasts as long as the gin.
We headed back to the boat, clambered back on-board and started to store things away. Picking up the water bottles off the yoga mat I noticed three black marks. Looking more closely I realized the yoga matt had been burnt by the sun being magnified as it passed through the water. Who would have expected that to happen? I doubt it would have caught on fire but I am not willing to experiment with that concept.
We are still not done. We have a lunch date that coincides perfectly with realising that we are almost out of fuel for our dinghy. So, once more ashore to meet up with Denny a friend we first met back in Port Dickson for lunch and buy some fuel.
Denny is 75, sails solo most of the time on a Spencer 53 foot sail-boat. For the last month he has had his grandson visiting and they have managed to fit in scuba certification for Taylor, sailed to Lankawi and back with stops at a number of islands for scuba adventures. I admire Denny’s resilience but do not think I want to be out saling at 75. Who knows, 75 isn’t that far away!
Lunch over, engine started and off we go only making two miles to the first anchorage south! We’re happy. The wind blows freshly, the skies are clear, the water is a little clearer and the anchorage is only 2 metres deep.
Day two – Phuket to Ko Phi Phi
Wind blowing from the west at 10 knots. 0700hrs we pull up the anchor and drift away from the island while munching away on breakfast which is leftover last nights dinner made into an omelette i.e. Scrambled eggs with a sausages and fried potatoes. The boat takes care of herself while the genoa pulls the boat along at 5 knots.
We know we do not want the hassle of Phi Phi’s main harbour so head around the south east corner and supposedly an anchorage in 11 metres off a sandy beach. Is nothing sacred? We arrive at a sand beach at low tide and cannot find the 11 metres but rather 18’metres and a beach fringed with a coral shelf. Ah, great for snorkelling. The only problem is there are at least 20 power boats each with 30 people on-board tied stern to the reef. Passengers are all bobbing around in lifejackets and the reef looking like an apple dunking tub at the country fair.
Once one boat leaves two more arrive. They arrive with great fanfare. Having three 350 h.p. engines they do three doughnuts in the anchorage at high speed to the thrill of the passengers who must think they are on the roller coaster at Coney Island throwing their arms in the air and screaming for more. All I feel like is taking out my flare gun and carefully aiming at the fuel tank letting go with a barrage. Makes me wonder if I can purchase a repeat firing flare gun.
Well, it is the only anchorage close by and we are a little burnt by the sun and know night time will bring relief from tourisma extravigansa. However, we also learn that we are on a major passenger route between down-town Phi Phi and the east coast resorts. Combined with the bobbing apples we are also rolled side to side by the ferries, bangkas, ski boats, fishing boats and whatever else decides to fly by with either 3 X 350 h.p. or what sounds like a NASCAR without a muffler. I think the tourism industry here is slowly learning that tourists do not like to be deafened by unmuffled longtails but a few die-hards still survive.
Finally peace arrives by 1900hrs but by this time I have sworn never again to come to Phi Phi. The problem is that in transit from or to Langkawi or Phuket it is a convenient stop. But if there is a next time I will come with a multi repeater flare gun!
Day three – Ko Phi Phi to Ko Rok Noi
Amazing. Pulled up the anchor at 0700hrs and as the breeze pulled us out to the open water we sat and had our tea, cereal and warmed buns. Sky was clear a strengthening breeze and we were off on our next 38 mile leg to Ko Roc Noi, a small uninhabited island that is now a national park. Our only concern was if the island would provide us enough protection from the SW swell.
We rounded the north end of the island at 1330hrs still wondering if we would get a comfortable night. First we see one Thai fish-boat anchored out on the spit at the north end and then two then twenty then when we have a clear view of the anchorage another ten to make it forty! Yes, the anchorage is protected.
We know the fish-boats are anchored for the day while they rest up before heading out at night for their regular fishing routine. It seems there isn’t and part of this coast that is not fished. Sustainable? I have no idea but I suspect not.
As we manoeuvre in to anchor we cut it a little close and come close to skewering ourselves on a coral head. We are always looking for the opportunity to anchor in 3 metres of sand but typical of this coast the shoreline is fringed with patches of sand interspersed with coral heads that are too close to the surface and too close together to manoeuvre Sage amongst them to find a secure anchorage. So it means heading out to where the water depth is 12+ metres and where there are fewer coral heads.
We find a good spot and wonder why we see no other sail-boats. It’s almost perfect. There is a slight swell that sweeps around the island making us roll slightly. The wind is channelled by the break in the two island allowing the tidal flow to move through the anchorage. The gap is angled in such a way that in the SW monsoon the majority of the swell is broken down.
So, here we sit, we are anchored two hours before low tide, there is still ice in the cooler from Phuket and the wine bottle is uncorked and the brie cheese is in a perfect state to be eaten with the remaining epi. We are rapidly running out of all our wonderful fresh treats from last minute shopping in Phuket! These are not the types of things available in Langkawi.
Day four – Ko Roc Noi
A day to relax and take in the various opportunities available in the anchorage. Most of the fish-boats anchored late in the evening are now gone. I can only imagine they are just pulling up their nets from a night of trying to second guess where the fish are. Am sure the boats will be back in later to rest up for another night of fishing.
Our first call is a trip ashore to where I can see a run of fresh water spilling on to the beach from the forest. Fresh water showers might be the order of the day. Sad to say the water turns out to be too brackish; the high tide pushes the salt water up into the basin making the water impossible to drink and even dubious for showers. Ah well there is a ranger station and camp-ground further along the beach.
The camp-ground is immaculate but the place is empty except for a few staff who speak very little English. The island was used for the French ‘Survivor’ series and we think the complex infrastructure in evidence on the island was a result of the TV series.
Slinking around are some interesting creatures
There are 80 solar panels tucked in amongst a grove of trees that have been cleared to allow sunlight through for at least a part of the day. There are also cottages dotted around the woods but all in very poor repair.
The King and Queen are never far anywhere in Thailand. This is the park HQ
They look solidly built but on closer inspection the wood is rotting, the water facilities disconnected, the pathways overgrown with weeds and most of the windows broken or in poor repair. It is obvious that at one time there were expectations of lots of visitors but is it the lack of maintenance or the remoteness of the location the reason for the state of the buildings? I do not know the answer but even now there are no other sail boats in the anchorage whereas in January there must have been at least 12 pleasure craft.
Ko Roc Noi – apart from lizards there are all sorts of things to discover. Even a shrine to you know what…
Ah cool off and see how many fish we can find?
Day five – Ko Roc Noi
Another gift. A relaxed day spent doing a few on-board chores, reading and then three hours snorkelling around various spots on the east side of the island.
The coral is reasonably healthy in places and in others show either the ravages of dynamite fishing or simply the slow rejuvenation process. Whatever area we swim through it is a pleasure. When you do come onto an especially lively piece of coral there is a rainbow of colours to enjoy from the frills of the clams to the quickly darting fish. At times great schools of brightly coloured fish follow us for ages and at other times we glide over large expanses of sand as we swim towing the dinghy behind us looking for another coral head to hover over.
The water is exceptionally clear which is a real treat. This area of the ocean does not have a lot of clear water anchorages and it is always a treat to get far enough from the mainland and out to the islands where most of the time one gets clear water.
Day six – Ko Roc Noi to Phaetra
The fickleness of sailing in the SW monsoon season. We sail up the anchor and start our 32 mile trip across to Phaetra. Our original destination was Ko Bulan but with a dead downwind run progress is slow as the apparent wind drops to about three knots. We roll our way over the waters making slow progress. Gives us time to enjoy the day and the scenery.
Always keeping on eye out for fish boats, fish nets, buoys etc we are surprised by a fin off the port bow. It is not something usually seen so we are knocked out of our somnambulist state realising what we are seeing is two whale sharks. We have never seen whale sharks and it has made our day. We didn’t even know whale sharks were in this area and wondering how they have managed to escape the fisherman’s’ nets.
Although the event only lasts a split second it gives us something to talk about for ages. However we still have a few miles to go before our altered destination, Phaetra. Readers of the blog will remember thst on our way north we also stopped here and we came to the conclusion that it was the island of lost sailors souls. This time we did not meet any.
Phaetra at sunset
Evening descended. There was no one to share the anchorage with us and the fishing boats were out at sea or so we thought.
Day seven – Phaetra to Ko Bulan
The day started early. 0330hrs to be precise. The evening had been still and humid so I was sleeping on deck. There were no other boats around and we were anchored in an area where there was about 2 square kilometres of anchoring room all in less than 8 metres.
0330hrs comes and I am half conscious of a fish-boat motoring by very closely. It is crawling by. I do not arise thinking yes it will keep going. Suddenly the engine stops. That wakes me up. What is going on? What with all the anchoring space available is this guy doing anchoring less than fifty metres from us? Their lights are on, it is a large fish-boat with a crew of 7. They are all chattering away as though the diesel engines are on full blast and they are banging away on pots and pans and whatever else makes enough noise to wake everyone within three square kilometres. But we are the only ones within hailing distance.
My overly active imagination goes into full gear. They’re setting this all up to board us and take what they want. What can we do? Out comes the flare gun, spread the tacks on the deck, fire up the satellite phone, turn on the VHF and generally stress out. So what are they doing? They are out on deck mending their nets, they are singing away and after about ninety minutes things quieten down and they are obviously resting.
I cannot stay awake any longer and snooze away in the cockpit with the flare gun loaded. I am startled awake by the starting engines. “OK” I say to myself. “Come and get us if you can”. But no, they motor off for another day of fishing leaving us with gaping mouths feeling like fools. I should say me because Connie was not concerned and early on had called me crazy and went below to fall asleep in the V berth.
Oh well we are awake so we may as well head off. Pull up the anchor and off we go for a beautiful 18 nautical mile sail to Ko Bulan. It is one of our favourite anchorages as on our way north we stopped and found a fresh water stream.
Ko Bulan anchorage looking north to the entrance we used. Narrow yes – only 12 metres wide but gives access to one of our favourite anchorages
Day eight – Ko Bulan to Taratao
Lovely short sail down. Clear skies, gentle seas and wonderful scenery.
Taratao has an intriguing history. It was used as a prisoner camp particularly during the height of the communist insurgency in the 1950s. Oddly enough in one of the english language newspapers here was a story of a returning communist being arrested at the airport with ‘seditious’ written materials in his suitcase. The chief of police in Kuala Lumpur was quoted as warning citizens they had better not read or have in possession such materials. I have now cleared out my bookshelf! Since when was free speech and thought outlawed in Malaysia?
Anyway back to Taratao. There are many miles of walks to do on Taratao including a walk through the old prison camp and the cemetery where some 700+ graves are marked. Best of all though is the non stop water hose at the end of the 75 metre jetty that was built to unload prisoners. The jetty is now crumbling but with attitudes like those expressed by the chief of police we may have a work project in progress in the not too distant future.
Taratao pier
We made ample use of the water at the end of the dock and managed a few short walks. We are still finding the heat oppressive and difficult to exert ourselves during the heat of midday. However, the beauty of Taratao drew us out of the boat’s cocoon and out and around the island. We will make it back there again on one of our forays north or south over the next while.
Day 9 -Taratao to Tanjung Rhu
So now we cross over the border and back into Malaysia. Tanjung Rhu was a 15 mile jump and is situated on the north eastern shore of Langkawi. We had not been in before and on the charts it is shown as inaccessible for draught vessels. However, we had seen other boats in there so decided to give it a try. Interesting entrance. The entrance is not simply for a bay but for a complex and very large mangrove basin. There are untold numbers of channels navigable by small boats at high tide. Tourist boats make good use of the area taking people into bat caves, off to see eagles and to the numerous floating restaurants with sea pens attached where you can make your lunch choice.
Tanjang Rhu anchorage – no point 7 to 8 was not our route!
Coming into the anchorage was nerve racking as depths varied from 1.5 metres to 8 metres. Never having been here before and not having any clear chart of the possibilities was a little tense. However we found a place that was about five fathoms and dropped the anchor. It was in the main channel from the open water through to the mangrove area and in the distance we could see the floating restaurants which we were dying to try out.
We let the boat settle down, made sure she wasn’t going to drag and then we hopped in the dinghy for a little excursion ashore. First stop was the floating restaurant. What a great place. You can walk around and look at the nets they have in the water with all the varieties of fish they will cook up for you. There is snapper, ray, huge prawns, squid etc. Feeling sorry for the penned fish we chose the most innocuous and most common – squid. I love squid. They have a lovely way of making squid here serving it lightly fried and kind of like a salad with green mangoes. Lovely sauce and accompanied by a few other dishes. we were so thankful to get off the boat and have someone else prepare and cook the food.
Ah lunch out. We also ordered some Tom Yum soup to take back to the boat for dinner
After lunch we motored around the mangrove area for a while, took a walk onshore and then headed back to Sage. Next day headed to Khua, check in and perhaps some acquaintances in the anchorage or at the yacht club. It will be our home for the next while as we welcome some old sailing friends coming in from the U.S. and wait for our next guest arriving from Edmonton.
Next chapter? Who knows
Langkawi Island
Yahoo
The work is finally finished. It’s taken longer than expected but the interruptions have been frequent and interesting.
For example, two days ago, we got a call from our friends, Jack and Sandy on Zorana, asking if we knew where Will was. OK, Will is someone we met in Langkawi when we were hauled out. He was working on his wood masts as well as the yearly haul out to paint etc.
He has a 50 foot wooden schooner built, I think, in 1936. Jack and Sandy were asking if we had any contact information for Will as his boat was aground. The night before had been wild. The sumatra winds were playing tricks again with gusts to 35 knots, absolutely buckets of rain and a good swell sweeping around the south end of Phuket making the anchorage uncomfortable. But what did we know? We were watching a the third season of “Game of Thrones” (I call in Crown of Thorns) movie in our abode ashore with the air conditioning on.
So, when we told Jack and Sandi 
that we didn’t have a Thai contact number for him we said we would do what we can to find him. Jack said other people in the anchorage had got together and managed to secure Will’s boat from the stern (he was aground bow in) with some old jib sheets they found on deck acting as the anchor line in place of chain.
It all turned out to be the perfect scenario for an almost disaster. The contact in Langkawi said the person in the states they could get information from was away for the weekend. The contact at the yacht club said Will had filled out a temporary membership card but that the membership secretary had the paperwork and she was off on holiday for the week in Bangkok with no access to Will’s information.
So, to cut a long story short – no Will. So I talked to the person doing the work on our boat, Mark fromLatitude 8, and he said he was busy taking care of another boat dragging in the anchorage. However, he said he would meet us at Wills boat at high tide and we would try to drag it off the sand/mud and set it up on another mooring.
With about 4 dinghys, 1 X 8HP and 3 X 15HP we were able to spin the boat around so the bow was facing wind and waves and then buoying the temporary anchor and leaving it behind we were able to push the boat up to another mooring. All saved and the only damage done was a little water in the bilge from the boat planks working when the boat was being pounded down on the sand causing the planks to leak a little. That will subside after a period of time and Will can once again sail away.
It was Will’s lucky day but a warning to other sailors coming in to the anchorage not to take the moorings laid out by the harbour authorities. They are attached to a steel loop on the concrete blocks but when they laid them out they threw out the concrete blocks into the water without checking to ensure they landed right side up. So, not for the first time with the 100 odd moorings, the line had chafed through a concrete block that landed upside down and pinned the rope to the ocean floor. Like a serrated knife the concrete block made short work of the line once a good load was placed on it.
The above was not the reason for this blog but rather to let you know we are back in operation. Today we re-possessed our boat from the builder (no, we didn’t do all the work ourselves) and climbed onboard to look at the final product and test everything out. It all comes just in time as it also time for us to clear out of Thailand so that we do not over stay our one month permit.
We are sad to leave our little Phuket abode. If anyone is looking for a place to stay in Thailand we can certainly recommend this place. It’s called Baan Suan Chalong, baansuanchalong@gmail.com
A first panorama shot. Not very interesting but this has been our home for 3 weeks
It’s on the road between Ao Chalong and Kata Beach. It’s secure, comfortable, private, fully furnished, wi-fi and convenient. It does not have a website but if you are coming to Thailand and looking for a good place to stay in Phuket that doesn’t cost the earth then it’s a good choice.
Tomorrow we are headed back to the Ao Chalong Yacht Club and Sage 11. It will be good to be back onboard and another chance for adventures as we move south.
How can one be excited by new sinks?
New counter top, new sink taps, new sinks. Nowhere near as exciting as kiteboarding in the Tuamotus
We are headed back to Langkawi and there should be another instalment of the blog when we get down there so if you are still reading this then dream of all the fresh fish that will end up on this counter in the next couple of weeks!
We are getting there
Yes, it is true we are making progress. The work is going well and so it should as our visas run out at the beginning of next week.
A few pictures just to prove progress is being made
we’re there in the cockpit. It is completed
Before being torn apart
Early pictures of the galley as work was starting
In the process of being put together
Yes, the interior of the icebox is finished, the countertop is on but not finished and yes, the boat is a mess! Will we be able to get it together for the coming sailing season.
A refit interval
OK we can’t work all the time especially when there is a festival on. So, searching out public information on festivals we hit on the Por Kor Festival (go to Por Kor Festival Phuket 2008 for an old You Tube video) . It all relates to turtles and hungry ghosts. So here is a little interval presented in photos of the Por Kor Festival in downtown Phuket.
The parade – small contingent but enthusiastic
The turtle being carried at the front of the parade on the rooftop and all decorated with real flowers
And what we all came for the turtles but we couldn’t find the ghosts
Just wanted to grab the roast duck and run.
Ducks for buddha. And I thought Buddha was vegetarian. There must have been 100 roast ducks
Sierd, eat your heart out. All I wanted to do was grab all the crackling.
And always the kids. And lots of them in colourful dress
Annie – all sculpted out of vegetables. You have to come to Thailand to figure out how they do this.
Umm, grasshoppers. Delicious and popular in sweet soya sauce
silk worm mealy grubs in a chili sauce. Another delicacy
That’s it and now back to work on the boat.
Rennovations
We’re back at it. It seems only the other day we were hauled out and repairing the centreboard.This time we are tearing out the teak from the cockpit and replacing it. The teak is from the original time the boat was built in 1982 and after years of bearing the brunt of people’s butts the teak is wearing thin. That means the screws put in from underneath are poking up through the teak and making us feel like we are sadhus whose expertise is sleeping on a bed of nails.
Teak off – what a mess
So, where else but in Thailand would one be able to find teak. It is great for use on the outside of the boat but I don’t agree with the vast amount of teak used for interiors when there is so much other kind of wood that has beautiful grains and would be suitable for boat interiors. Basically teak is too dark for us.
Apart from the teak in the cockpit we are also tearing apart the galley. We are making up a new countertop, installing new taps and replacing the insulation in the ice box to make it more efficient.
The galley countertop is now off exposing the icebox
Stay tuned for more pictures as we progress.
The countertop on its way to the dump
The sink has seen its last days holes and all
Langkawi to Phuket
Langkawi to Phuket route map
Certainly a different type of trip from the previous time. Big differences are the addition of a large SW swell seeing as it is the SW monsoon season. The island of Sumatra does protect Langkawi to some extent but as one moves north the swell becomes more dominant. In the NE monsoon season the Malaysian peninsula makes this trip smoother as one is on the lee side with the dominant wind coming off the shoreline.
The south-west monsoon is tricky. There are strong winds one has to be careful of, called sumatras. Sneaky in their quick arrival, vicious in strength and potentially destructive in they can churn up a powerful swell due to the shallow waters along the coast. A lot of the time we are moving through water no deeper than thirty feet. It is not clear water so there is always the concern for navigational hazards.
It is beautiful though and we are being quite cautious moving only in daylight hours and trying to choose short distances to cover between well protected anchorages. Our first anchorage after Khua was Telaga (Position #1 on map). As mentioned we did get pinned down there with rain, squalls and a uncomfortsble swell rolling into the anchorage. We left as soon as we felt prudent and jumped up to the east side of Taratao ( Position #2 on map).
Pinned down in Telaga Harbour
Tarutao is a national park, runs in a north-south direction, is high and provides numerous well protected anchorages on both the east and west sides. Being the SW monsoon we chose the east side and anchored off of a beach with a small waterfall and pool. Ah a fresh water shower and bath to cool off under, laundry to do and refilling a few small jerry cans – this is called paradise!
The following day our friends on Zorana headed off under threatening skies, overcast, wind but not sure which direction. We elected to stay behind cowering under awnings, water collection systems and warm coffee. We made the right choice. Six hours later Zorana staggers back from large seas, heavy winds and lets just say all round shitty conditions. Meanwhile we were gorging on brownies, coffee and fresh water baths despite the rain and wind.
Zorana before going out to get clobbered
Next day time to go. Make tea, start the engine say goodbye and drift north with the current and light wind. Six miles later a call. “Connie, we found your sunglasses” Zorana smugly said. Turn around, motor back, pick up glasses and away we go once again. Not far though. 15 miles to the (north we find a beautifully protected anchorage with more waterfalls and calm water (Position #3 on the map).
Ko Bulah – pirates booty. No just fishing traps stored on a safe beach in a very protected anchorage
Generally the weather improved as they day went on. However, I will say we were enjoying the overcast, drizzle and cooler temperature. All a relief from the heat and humidity and we weren’t missing the air conditioner. We both were saying it reminded us of the Pacific Northwest but just warmer. The landscape was similar in that here it is a very rocky shoreline where the vegetation drapes itself over the water’s edge trying to suck the ocean dry in its never-ending quest to grow and take over territory. There’s debris floating everywhere; large segments of bamboo, palms floating vertically, scrap wood and all along with dead squid and numerous other pelagic beings (as well as fishing nets on the rocks).
Tangled nets on the rocks
Soon the sun shines the heat increases and as an excuse to cool off I say to Connie “any more laundry?”. Launching the kayak I take the cushions and sundry other items ashore. I find a freshwater pool, jump in and make like I am doing hard work on the shoreline taking buckets of water away from the pool to do laundry. It’s all for show. It is the cool pool under the overhanging vines and trees that I really seek. Just to lie in the pool and cool off is such a wonderful feeling. Another fringe benefit that others pay a princely sum for are the small fish that nibble away on sundry body parts eating dead skin! Of course when they get a little to brazen and get close to more sensitive areas then enough is enough. Time to stir the water around, scare them away for a few minutes and then they return. Starting shyly at the feet end they slowly work their way up until once again it’s time to stir the water up again! Ah, paradise….
Next day. Not so much paradise but a dose of reality. The SW swell and west wind made it a real effort to even make twenty miles to Phaetra (Position #4 on the map). We made it there and stopped choosing not to follow Zorana another thirty miles to Kraden.
The stunning limestone cliffs of Phaetra towering above our anchorage
Phaetra is built like a fine serrated knife blade. Standing at over 53 metres in height, 2 miles long and 50 metres wide it is an imposing rock offering dubious protection. We anchored at the south-east end tucked in 20 metres from the shoreline. We double kinked our next to see the top of the rock realising that if a piece were to break off it would tumble straight down and through our teak deck into the cabin below. Oh well we were out of the swell and sitting to the current watching the bird life thinking if we were rock climbers and suicidal we could have a fine time.
We stayed the night there ready at a moments notice should the wind suddenly switch. A sleepless night punctuated by screeching monkeys, fluttering bird life, fish hitting the side of the hull and strangest of all seeing the lost souls of sailors. That is the only easy way to explain it. Up at 0100hrs we were both staring at the shoreline watching what we first thought were suicidal rock climbers with headlamps on making their way along the shoreline. But no, there was more than one light. There were several and they were moving at incredible speed up and down the rock face and in and out of the foliage. What were they? We don’t know because all we saw were what we thought were lights. Hence we have come up with the idea that Phaetra is the island of lost sailors souls. Corny but give me a better explanation!
Keep moving. Up at 0530hrs and start northward. Get around the south end of Phaetra, bounce around in the SW swell and the rebound waves off the west coast of Phaetra and away we go. Not much wind but a trade wind sort of day. Clear skies to the west, a light wind which only allows us to motor sail northwestward. Frustrating as would love to sail but we need to get further up the coast and to better protected anchorages.
Returned to Ko Ngai (Position #5 on the map) where we had been in March. A lovely island with a few small resorts. Had a beautiful last two hours of the trip into here with a lovely wind sailing in the lee of Ko Kradan, across the channel to Ko Ngai and into the lee of the island next to a golden beach. There we go paradise again.
Soon all that changed. We launched the dinghy, cleaned up everything, took a quick swim, baby powdered (!) , shaved, put on our best ratty swimsuits and prepared to go ashore. We looked around and yes over top of the island a huge black cloud.
Waiting for one of the sumatras and hoping it will pass us by
“OK” we said “let’s wait for this to pass and the go ashore”. Well three hours later we are still pinned down. The wind comes in howling gusts, the rain in sheets of piercing bullets that makes us think of bullets on the front lines of Afghanistan and skies that look like Mordor.
We are not worried but do occasionally look to windward to see at low water the jagged protrusions of coral hoping the wind direction doesn’t change and impale us on a pinnacle that makes us look like an ornament on a cruiser’s wedding cake. We occasionally look to starboard to see our friends on Zorana disappearing in another gust of salt water spume thrown up by another gust. But like most modern cruisers we forgo the VHF for the cell phone to check everyone is OK. There is no question that anyone is getting in their dinghy for a visit and a sunset drink.
Woke up to a beautiful day. Sailed up the anchor, drifted out of the lee and had a lovely short sail over to the south east end of Ko Lanta (Position #6 on the map). Anchored in 8ft trying to get out of the impact of the SW swell. Got enough protection for a comfortable night despite the occasional rain squall and local fish boats coming and going at all hours.
Morning sky was overcast with rain in the distance. Gave up the bed in favour of getting on our way to Ko Phi Phi. Sailing events? Caught a fish but it broke the line and left with my lure. Sailed off and on depending on wind strength and swell state. Only rained once. Changed course for only one fish boat. No squalls. Arrived Phi Phi before dark (Position #7 on the map).
Pi Pi is not exactly our favourite place but it is certainly interesting. We were surprised at the large numbers of people under 25 considering it is the off-season. We were constantly being given little flyers announcing the half-moon party that night at Woody’s. Well, we thought we were a little out-of-place so headed back to the boat after a quick bite to eat. Our first taste of Thai food after a few months of Malaysian mixtures.
Next day the wind is blowing again, the temperature perfect for a beat to windward. Off we head out of Ko Phi Phi before the half-moon partiers have gone to bed and we sail a total of 56 miles leaving at 0630hrs and arriving at 1630hrs in Ao Chalong (Position #8 on the map). It was a great day with a bit of spray on the deck but the boat performed well and the wind kept us going all day at a good rate. However, it was good to come to rest in a familiar anchorage.
It does feel like a different place though. We are in the land of catamarans here. And they are ‘go fast’ catamarans. I am looking forward to next Sunday when they have a race day at the yacht club. I am going to try to get out on one of these machines and crank up the speed. Stay tuned.
The land of catamarans – Ao Chalong
Ao Chalong is our home for a while as we revamp our galley and put new teak into the cockpit area. In the SW monsoon season it is quiet, the wind is off the shore and so far except for the occasional rain the weather has been perfect with a gently breeze coming off the shore day and night.
Cut the umbilical cord
Finally we have done it. Yes, the umbilical cord to the ‘real’ world has been cut and right now we are anchored for the first time in 4 months.Cutting the cord is not all that easy. The air conditioning is the first and largest of all cords to cut. We found someone who is going to make good use of it while we are away. Holger and Antje onboard S/V Freja are going to enjoy the comforts of a good nights sleep. We will probably have to sneak over in the middle of the night and take it back from them when we return!
But it’s not only the air conditioning that has to be disconnected. We also have a small bar fridge, two large table top fans, recharging cords for all the electric gadgetry that we get used to while being plugged in at the dock. Now we are down to the basics and can recharge only those items for which we have enough solar power to make work.
One advantage is that we do not have to negotiate a maze of wires when we come down below. Everything is put away in its sailing place and the boat actually now looks like it should i.e. everything in its place, nothing about to fly off the shelves or roll off the berths, ice in the cooler and a bottle of rum on the table!
Just an aside for anyone reading this while intending to sail in this area. Langkawi is duty-free and, although Muslim, sells alcohol by the ship load at far reduced prices than for what is for sale in Thailand. So like every good Samaritan we load up to keep us going while in Thailand.
The other umbilical cord to cut is that to new-found friends. We finally have met a few people not only locally but also cruisers. It’s amazing how long many of these people have been out sailing. Some for as long as 35 years without stopping, some new to the lifestyle and others who have been living onboard in Malaysia as a retirement lifestyle and making the occasional long or short passage during the right season.
Every time one leaves an anchorage you never know when you will meet up with these people again. Some will be there when we return and others will have moved on to other countries, other oceans and only by chance will we share another anchorage again. Perhaps we should start a seniors home for wayward sailors where we can all sit around the pool and tell tall tales of storms and pirates, sinkings and drinking, passages and landings.
So, what are we doing? We are headed north to Thailand in the SW monsoon season. Right now we are holding tight in Telaga Harbour as there is wind, too much wind. It is the longest I have seen the wind blow from the same direction and in some strength since we left Singapore. The rain pelts down, the swell sneaks around the headland we are taking shelter behind and the boat sways from side to side as the gusts come and go and the boat turns sideways to the swell.
We have left Langkawi until October when we will return to greet the return of Dave and Marcia, sailing friends from the 1980s, who have come back to reclaim their boat from dry land storage.
Until later when we will have internet access…
Pinned down in Telaga Harbour
Penang Sojourn (#3)
Yes, we are finally back in the water with the centreboard repaired, half the bottom painted with new anti-fouling. There are now three experimental bottom paints for Sage’s bottom. We are trying out Jotun paint for the centreboard which is black, a propeller anti fouling paint with is red and finally an International Tri-lux 33 which is white.
Here is the picture prior to launching
multi coloured bottom – trying out different paints
And the newly re-built centreboard:
Me with the rebuilt centreboard. Geez, if I had only put it in the right way the first time I would not have had to take it all apart again. That was a three day delay!! Bad Tony. Always remember to dry fit.
Launching went well, we headed back to the marina, spent two nights there and escaped to Penang for some r&r. After three weeks living on the boat up on dry land it was a pleasure to be back in the water with the ferry wash rocking us to sleep in the marina.
Penang is a wonderful place. A UNESCO world heritage site and a city that has wonderful celebrations, great art, excellent food and reasonable accommodation.
Here is a series of collages from our last sojourn to Penang:
Penang Temples
Miscellaneous
Penang – street shrines
Eating in Penang
Penang rickshaws
Penang murals
Penang street metal art
Penang – More street art
Parsley,sage, rosemary and thyme
Out of all of the above the only herb prolific here that Canadians would be familiar with is parsley.So, on a day when there wasn’t much happening on the hard I decided that a visit to the wet market would be a good idea. Needed to add to supplies anyway and once I got to the local market most of the fish stalls were closing down but there was plenty available in the vegetable section.
Walking through I got this brilliant idea that I should haul out my Japanese drying rack and dry some parsley seeing as there were mounds available.
So, off I trundled with a huge bag of parsley and drove back thinking we had at least a months supply of parsley if my dryer would work.
So, cutting up the parsley I proceeded to load up the dryer and sat back with a smug look on my face thinking of all the herbes de provence that went mouldy while we were away in India. It seemed that no matter what we opened when we returned had kind of turned to a green mush – oatmeal, herbs, cereal, granolas etc etc
So there was the parsley hanging up in the cockpit and the first night the rain pelted down but I smugly felt it was OK because the dryer was hanging up in a protected area. The next day more rain, no wind, and second day the same and the third day the same etc etc
Parsley in the dryer. Not successful but it was fun to try.
Well after 5 days there was little dried parsley. Yes, it was starting to shrivel up and fall through the screening onto our newly painted cockpit but it was not ready for storage. And after five days I called it quits.
Three days later the sun came out full strength, the wind freshened but the parsley had long been thrown into the dustbin. I guess will just have to wait for the NE Monsoon when conditions may be ideal for drying foods.
I have yet to try any fish or meat but am dying to do so but not here!
Yes, that is a bar fridge next to the dryer. Right now our only fridge since we are hooked up to 240V. And there is our new cockpit fan. Yes, even outside we need a fan as rarely is there a breeze of any significance at this time of the year except when the rain squalls arrive and it blows for 10 minutes
More yard work
International is the most widely available boat paint so the choice is easy but expensive – about $100
Yes, the work continues as we dodge the squalls, rain, sun and wind. We managed to complete the long-planned painting project for the cockpit.
The third coat and almost all the paint
It’s really a trial run to see what the results would be like. We are quite pleased with the results. The prep, as always, is the longest part. Prep is the key though as one knows that should there be any flaws in the surface they will show up tenfold in the end result. So attention to detail, cleanliness, taping and weather are key. International Protection is a two-part polyurethane that is long-lasting, tough and difficult to apply. According to the directions ideal conditions are 16 degrees C and 70% humidity. Harumph, we are just not in the kind of climate that is conducive to using this product but we plod on.
We have now taken off the blue tape and can sit in the cockpit proud of the end result despite all the challenges. Would we use this paint again? Time will tell. If it holds up well under heavy use the answer would probably be yes. It is difficult to apply but once one has the technique down for ‘rolling and tipping’ it’s actually satisfying to see such a good result. Yes, we should pat ourselves on our backs. I guess now though we have to put up with the two-tone nature of the colour in the cockpit with the contrast between the old gelcoat and the new paint.
Next is the varnishing:
We are not doing the entire interior but rather a small amount at a time. We are painting over some of the teak plywood as salt and sun damage has done its job in taking the life out of the ply.
Taping off for the varnish on the interior. A little at a time
We like the choice of colour for painting over the ply and are highlighting the trim with a gloss varnish which provides a nice contrast to the painted surfaces. If we like this we will continue to follow through slowly in other parts of the boat.
Connie is tuning up her expertise on the foam brush varnishing. We have tricked the weather in terms of varnishing by turning on the air conditioning. Not only does this make Connie happier in the varnishing trade but it does wonders in helping the varnish set up properly. Lots of people have mentioned the problems in the tropical conditions of getting the varnish to set up hard enough in a reasonable amount of time. The air conditioner works wonders!
Connie revitalizing the interior varnish work
So how much will we complete? The galley is a good start as the main hatch is the culprit in this area not only allowing the sun to do its damage but it’s also an area in which the occasional salt water wave comes pouring down. The combination of the salt water and sun over time has done a good job in keeping us employed in the maintenance world.
Last but the reason we hauled out in the first place. The centreboard. Yes, more work in the centreboard. In planning for the re-installation of the centreboard I took a closer look at some of the fitting and decided to replace one. After 30 years in the water the SS flanged pipe that fits into the head of the centreboard was looking in poor shape. Was lucky enough to get a new one made up here and when the board goes back in I will be able to sleep at night not thinking about the possibility of the SS fitting letting go and having to do this work all over again.
You can see the damage in the picture here. I have to say it’s not bad for 30 years in the water but it’s definitely not something one wants to continue sailing with.
30 years of salt water corrosion on the flanged pipe for the centreboard head
So here is the new fitting along with part of the old one which was in good condition. The flanged pipe fits into the head of the centreboard ad then the pin
The replacement SS centreboard shaft, flange and end fittings. Limit the worry!
is inserted from the port side, through the hull and the head of the centreboard to the starboard side where it is held by a bolt threaded into the end of the SS rod. Voila, finished. I am not yet at the installation point as still working on the finishing of the centreboard. Hope to have that finished in a couple of days and then install and back in the water by Friday if all goes well.
That’s if for this weekend.
Sage on sail 