We are getting there
Yes, it is true we are making progress. The work is going well and so it should as our visas run out at the beginning of next week.
A few pictures just to prove progress is being made
we’re there in the cockpit. It is completed
Before being torn apart
Early pictures of the galley as work was starting
In the process of being put together
Yes, the interior of the icebox is finished, the countertop is on but not finished and yes, the boat is a mess! Will we be able to get it together for the coming sailing season.
A refit interval
OK we can’t work all the time especially when there is a festival on. So, searching out public information on festivals we hit on the Por Kor Festival (go to Por Kor Festival Phuket 2008 for an old You Tube video) . It all relates to turtles and hungry ghosts. So here is a little interval presented in photos of the Por Kor Festival in downtown Phuket.
The parade – small contingent but enthusiastic
The turtle being carried at the front of the parade on the rooftop and all decorated with real flowers
And what we all came for the turtles but we couldn’t find the ghosts
Just wanted to grab the roast duck and run.
Ducks for buddha. And I thought Buddha was vegetarian. There must have been 100 roast ducks
Sierd, eat your heart out. All I wanted to do was grab all the crackling.
And always the kids. And lots of them in colourful dress
Annie – all sculpted out of vegetables. You have to come to Thailand to figure out how they do this.
Umm, grasshoppers. Delicious and popular in sweet soya sauce
silk worm mealy grubs in a chili sauce. Another delicacy
That’s it and now back to work on the boat.
Rennovations
We’re back at it. It seems only the other day we were hauled out and repairing the centreboard.This time we are tearing out the teak from the cockpit and replacing it. The teak is from the original time the boat was built in 1982 and after years of bearing the brunt of people’s butts the teak is wearing thin. That means the screws put in from underneath are poking up through the teak and making us feel like we are sadhus whose expertise is sleeping on a bed of nails.
Teak off – what a mess
So, where else but in Thailand would one be able to find teak. It is great for use on the outside of the boat but I don’t agree with the vast amount of teak used for interiors when there is so much other kind of wood that has beautiful grains and would be suitable for boat interiors. Basically teak is too dark for us.
Apart from the teak in the cockpit we are also tearing apart the galley. We are making up a new countertop, installing new taps and replacing the insulation in the ice box to make it more efficient.
The galley countertop is now off exposing the icebox
Stay tuned for more pictures as we progress.
The countertop on its way to the dump
The sink has seen its last days holes and all
Langkawi to Phuket
Langkawi to Phuket route map
Certainly a different type of trip from the previous time. Big differences are the addition of a large SW swell seeing as it is the SW monsoon season. The island of Sumatra does protect Langkawi to some extent but as one moves north the swell becomes more dominant. In the NE monsoon season the Malaysian peninsula makes this trip smoother as one is on the lee side with the dominant wind coming off the shoreline.
The south-west monsoon is tricky. There are strong winds one has to be careful of, called sumatras. Sneaky in their quick arrival, vicious in strength and potentially destructive in they can churn up a powerful swell due to the shallow waters along the coast. A lot of the time we are moving through water no deeper than thirty feet. It is not clear water so there is always the concern for navigational hazards.
It is beautiful though and we are being quite cautious moving only in daylight hours and trying to choose short distances to cover between well protected anchorages. Our first anchorage after Khua was Telaga (Position #1 on map). As mentioned we did get pinned down there with rain, squalls and a uncomfortsble swell rolling into the anchorage. We left as soon as we felt prudent and jumped up to the east side of Taratao ( Position #2 on map).
Pinned down in Telaga Harbour
Tarutao is a national park, runs in a north-south direction, is high and provides numerous well protected anchorages on both the east and west sides. Being the SW monsoon we chose the east side and anchored off of a beach with a small waterfall and pool. Ah a fresh water shower and bath to cool off under, laundry to do and refilling a few small jerry cans – this is called paradise!
The following day our friends on Zorana headed off under threatening skies, overcast, wind but not sure which direction. We elected to stay behind cowering under awnings, water collection systems and warm coffee. We made the right choice. Six hours later Zorana staggers back from large seas, heavy winds and lets just say all round shitty conditions. Meanwhile we were gorging on brownies, coffee and fresh water baths despite the rain and wind.
Zorana before going out to get clobbered
Next day time to go. Make tea, start the engine say goodbye and drift north with the current and light wind. Six miles later a call. “Connie, we found your sunglasses” Zorana smugly said. Turn around, motor back, pick up glasses and away we go once again. Not far though. 15 miles to the (north we find a beautifully protected anchorage with more waterfalls and calm water (Position #3 on the map).
Ko Bulah – pirates booty. No just fishing traps stored on a safe beach in a very protected anchorage
Generally the weather improved as they day went on. However, I will say we were enjoying the overcast, drizzle and cooler temperature. All a relief from the heat and humidity and we weren’t missing the air conditioner. We both were saying it reminded us of the Pacific Northwest but just warmer. The landscape was similar in that here it is a very rocky shoreline where the vegetation drapes itself over the water’s edge trying to suck the ocean dry in its never-ending quest to grow and take over territory. There’s debris floating everywhere; large segments of bamboo, palms floating vertically, scrap wood and all along with dead squid and numerous other pelagic beings (as well as fishing nets on the rocks).
Tangled nets on the rocks
Soon the sun shines the heat increases and as an excuse to cool off I say to Connie “any more laundry?”. Launching the kayak I take the cushions and sundry other items ashore. I find a freshwater pool, jump in and make like I am doing hard work on the shoreline taking buckets of water away from the pool to do laundry. It’s all for show. It is the cool pool under the overhanging vines and trees that I really seek. Just to lie in the pool and cool off is such a wonderful feeling. Another fringe benefit that others pay a princely sum for are the small fish that nibble away on sundry body parts eating dead skin! Of course when they get a little to brazen and get close to more sensitive areas then enough is enough. Time to stir the water around, scare them away for a few minutes and then they return. Starting shyly at the feet end they slowly work their way up until once again it’s time to stir the water up again! Ah, paradise….
Next day. Not so much paradise but a dose of reality. The SW swell and west wind made it a real effort to even make twenty miles to Phaetra (Position #4 on the map). We made it there and stopped choosing not to follow Zorana another thirty miles to Kraden.
The stunning limestone cliffs of Phaetra towering above our anchorage
Phaetra is built like a fine serrated knife blade. Standing at over 53 metres in height, 2 miles long and 50 metres wide it is an imposing rock offering dubious protection. We anchored at the south-east end tucked in 20 metres from the shoreline. We double kinked our next to see the top of the rock realising that if a piece were to break off it would tumble straight down and through our teak deck into the cabin below. Oh well we were out of the swell and sitting to the current watching the bird life thinking if we were rock climbers and suicidal we could have a fine time.
We stayed the night there ready at a moments notice should the wind suddenly switch. A sleepless night punctuated by screeching monkeys, fluttering bird life, fish hitting the side of the hull and strangest of all seeing the lost souls of sailors. That is the only easy way to explain it. Up at 0100hrs we were both staring at the shoreline watching what we first thought were suicidal rock climbers with headlamps on making their way along the shoreline. But no, there was more than one light. There were several and they were moving at incredible speed up and down the rock face and in and out of the foliage. What were they? We don’t know because all we saw were what we thought were lights. Hence we have come up with the idea that Phaetra is the island of lost sailors souls. Corny but give me a better explanation!
Keep moving. Up at 0530hrs and start northward. Get around the south end of Phaetra, bounce around in the SW swell and the rebound waves off the west coast of Phaetra and away we go. Not much wind but a trade wind sort of day. Clear skies to the west, a light wind which only allows us to motor sail northwestward. Frustrating as would love to sail but we need to get further up the coast and to better protected anchorages.
Returned to Ko Ngai (Position #5 on the map) where we had been in March. A lovely island with a few small resorts. Had a beautiful last two hours of the trip into here with a lovely wind sailing in the lee of Ko Kradan, across the channel to Ko Ngai and into the lee of the island next to a golden beach. There we go paradise again.
Soon all that changed. We launched the dinghy, cleaned up everything, took a quick swim, baby powdered (!) , shaved, put on our best ratty swimsuits and prepared to go ashore. We looked around and yes over top of the island a huge black cloud.
Waiting for one of the sumatras and hoping it will pass us by
“OK” we said “let’s wait for this to pass and the go ashore”. Well three hours later we are still pinned down. The wind comes in howling gusts, the rain in sheets of piercing bullets that makes us think of bullets on the front lines of Afghanistan and skies that look like Mordor.
We are not worried but do occasionally look to windward to see at low water the jagged protrusions of coral hoping the wind direction doesn’t change and impale us on a pinnacle that makes us look like an ornament on a cruiser’s wedding cake. We occasionally look to starboard to see our friends on Zorana disappearing in another gust of salt water spume thrown up by another gust. But like most modern cruisers we forgo the VHF for the cell phone to check everyone is OK. There is no question that anyone is getting in their dinghy for a visit and a sunset drink.
Woke up to a beautiful day. Sailed up the anchor, drifted out of the lee and had a lovely short sail over to the south east end of Ko Lanta (Position #6 on the map). Anchored in 8ft trying to get out of the impact of the SW swell. Got enough protection for a comfortable night despite the occasional rain squall and local fish boats coming and going at all hours.
Morning sky was overcast with rain in the distance. Gave up the bed in favour of getting on our way to Ko Phi Phi. Sailing events? Caught a fish but it broke the line and left with my lure. Sailed off and on depending on wind strength and swell state. Only rained once. Changed course for only one fish boat. No squalls. Arrived Phi Phi before dark (Position #7 on the map).
Pi Pi is not exactly our favourite place but it is certainly interesting. We were surprised at the large numbers of people under 25 considering it is the off-season. We were constantly being given little flyers announcing the half-moon party that night at Woody’s. Well, we thought we were a little out-of-place so headed back to the boat after a quick bite to eat. Our first taste of Thai food after a few months of Malaysian mixtures.
Next day the wind is blowing again, the temperature perfect for a beat to windward. Off we head out of Ko Phi Phi before the half-moon partiers have gone to bed and we sail a total of 56 miles leaving at 0630hrs and arriving at 1630hrs in Ao Chalong (Position #8 on the map). It was a great day with a bit of spray on the deck but the boat performed well and the wind kept us going all day at a good rate. However, it was good to come to rest in a familiar anchorage.
It does feel like a different place though. We are in the land of catamarans here. And they are ‘go fast’ catamarans. I am looking forward to next Sunday when they have a race day at the yacht club. I am going to try to get out on one of these machines and crank up the speed. Stay tuned.
The land of catamarans – Ao Chalong
Ao Chalong is our home for a while as we revamp our galley and put new teak into the cockpit area. In the SW monsoon season it is quiet, the wind is off the shore and so far except for the occasional rain the weather has been perfect with a gently breeze coming off the shore day and night.
Cut the umbilical cord
Finally we have done it. Yes, the umbilical cord to the ‘real’ world has been cut and right now we are anchored for the first time in 4 months.Cutting the cord is not all that easy. The air conditioning is the first and largest of all cords to cut. We found someone who is going to make good use of it while we are away. Holger and Antje onboard S/V Freja are going to enjoy the comforts of a good nights sleep. We will probably have to sneak over in the middle of the night and take it back from them when we return!
But it’s not only the air conditioning that has to be disconnected. We also have a small bar fridge, two large table top fans, recharging cords for all the electric gadgetry that we get used to while being plugged in at the dock. Now we are down to the basics and can recharge only those items for which we have enough solar power to make work.
One advantage is that we do not have to negotiate a maze of wires when we come down below. Everything is put away in its sailing place and the boat actually now looks like it should i.e. everything in its place, nothing about to fly off the shelves or roll off the berths, ice in the cooler and a bottle of rum on the table!
Just an aside for anyone reading this while intending to sail in this area. Langkawi is duty-free and, although Muslim, sells alcohol by the ship load at far reduced prices than for what is for sale in Thailand. So like every good Samaritan we load up to keep us going while in Thailand.
The other umbilical cord to cut is that to new-found friends. We finally have met a few people not only locally but also cruisers. It’s amazing how long many of these people have been out sailing. Some for as long as 35 years without stopping, some new to the lifestyle and others who have been living onboard in Malaysia as a retirement lifestyle and making the occasional long or short passage during the right season.
Every time one leaves an anchorage you never know when you will meet up with these people again. Some will be there when we return and others will have moved on to other countries, other oceans and only by chance will we share another anchorage again. Perhaps we should start a seniors home for wayward sailors where we can all sit around the pool and tell tall tales of storms and pirates, sinkings and drinking, passages and landings.
So, what are we doing? We are headed north to Thailand in the SW monsoon season. Right now we are holding tight in Telaga Harbour as there is wind, too much wind. It is the longest I have seen the wind blow from the same direction and in some strength since we left Singapore. The rain pelts down, the swell sneaks around the headland we are taking shelter behind and the boat sways from side to side as the gusts come and go and the boat turns sideways to the swell.
We have left Langkawi until October when we will return to greet the return of Dave and Marcia, sailing friends from the 1980s, who have come back to reclaim their boat from dry land storage.
Until later when we will have internet access…
Pinned down in Telaga Harbour
Penang Sojourn (#3)
Yes, we are finally back in the water with the centreboard repaired, half the bottom painted with new anti-fouling. There are now three experimental bottom paints for Sage’s bottom. We are trying out Jotun paint for the centreboard which is black, a propeller anti fouling paint with is red and finally an International Tri-lux 33 which is white.
Here is the picture prior to launching
multi coloured bottom – trying out different paints
And the newly re-built centreboard:
Me with the rebuilt centreboard. Geez, if I had only put it in the right way the first time I would not have had to take it all apart again. That was a three day delay!! Bad Tony. Always remember to dry fit.
Launching went well, we headed back to the marina, spent two nights there and escaped to Penang for some r&r. After three weeks living on the boat up on dry land it was a pleasure to be back in the water with the ferry wash rocking us to sleep in the marina.
Penang is a wonderful place. A UNESCO world heritage site and a city that has wonderful celebrations, great art, excellent food and reasonable accommodation.
Here is a series of collages from our last sojourn to Penang:
Penang Temples
Miscellaneous
Penang – street shrines
Eating in Penang
Penang rickshaws
Penang murals
Penang street metal art
Penang – More street art
Parsley,sage, rosemary and thyme
Out of all of the above the only herb prolific here that Canadians would be familiar with is parsley.So, on a day when there wasn’t much happening on the hard I decided that a visit to the wet market would be a good idea. Needed to add to supplies anyway and once I got to the local market most of the fish stalls were closing down but there was plenty available in the vegetable section.
Walking through I got this brilliant idea that I should haul out my Japanese drying rack and dry some parsley seeing as there were mounds available.
So, off I trundled with a huge bag of parsley and drove back thinking we had at least a months supply of parsley if my dryer would work.
So, cutting up the parsley I proceeded to load up the dryer and sat back with a smug look on my face thinking of all the herbes de provence that went mouldy while we were away in India. It seemed that no matter what we opened when we returned had kind of turned to a green mush – oatmeal, herbs, cereal, granolas etc etc
So there was the parsley hanging up in the cockpit and the first night the rain pelted down but I smugly felt it was OK because the dryer was hanging up in a protected area. The next day more rain, no wind, and second day the same and the third day the same etc etc
Parsley in the dryer. Not successful but it was fun to try.
Well after 5 days there was little dried parsley. Yes, it was starting to shrivel up and fall through the screening onto our newly painted cockpit but it was not ready for storage. And after five days I called it quits.
Three days later the sun came out full strength, the wind freshened but the parsley had long been thrown into the dustbin. I guess will just have to wait for the NE Monsoon when conditions may be ideal for drying foods.
I have yet to try any fish or meat but am dying to do so but not here!
Yes, that is a bar fridge next to the dryer. Right now our only fridge since we are hooked up to 240V. And there is our new cockpit fan. Yes, even outside we need a fan as rarely is there a breeze of any significance at this time of the year except when the rain squalls arrive and it blows for 10 minutes
More yard work
International is the most widely available boat paint so the choice is easy but expensive – about $100
Yes, the work continues as we dodge the squalls, rain, sun and wind. We managed to complete the long-planned painting project for the cockpit.
The third coat and almost all the paint
It’s really a trial run to see what the results would be like. We are quite pleased with the results. The prep, as always, is the longest part. Prep is the key though as one knows that should there be any flaws in the surface they will show up tenfold in the end result. So attention to detail, cleanliness, taping and weather are key. International Protection is a two-part polyurethane that is long-lasting, tough and difficult to apply. According to the directions ideal conditions are 16 degrees C and 70% humidity. Harumph, we are just not in the kind of climate that is conducive to using this product but we plod on.
We have now taken off the blue tape and can sit in the cockpit proud of the end result despite all the challenges. Would we use this paint again? Time will tell. If it holds up well under heavy use the answer would probably be yes. It is difficult to apply but once one has the technique down for ‘rolling and tipping’ it’s actually satisfying to see such a good result. Yes, we should pat ourselves on our backs. I guess now though we have to put up with the two-tone nature of the colour in the cockpit with the contrast between the old gelcoat and the new paint.
Next is the varnishing:
We are not doing the entire interior but rather a small amount at a time. We are painting over some of the teak plywood as salt and sun damage has done its job in taking the life out of the ply.
Taping off for the varnish on the interior. A little at a time
We like the choice of colour for painting over the ply and are highlighting the trim with a gloss varnish which provides a nice contrast to the painted surfaces. If we like this we will continue to follow through slowly in other parts of the boat.
Connie is tuning up her expertise on the foam brush varnishing. We have tricked the weather in terms of varnishing by turning on the air conditioning. Not only does this make Connie happier in the varnishing trade but it does wonders in helping the varnish set up properly. Lots of people have mentioned the problems in the tropical conditions of getting the varnish to set up hard enough in a reasonable amount of time. The air conditioner works wonders!
Connie revitalizing the interior varnish work
So how much will we complete? The galley is a good start as the main hatch is the culprit in this area not only allowing the sun to do its damage but it’s also an area in which the occasional salt water wave comes pouring down. The combination of the salt water and sun over time has done a good job in keeping us employed in the maintenance world.
Last but the reason we hauled out in the first place. The centreboard. Yes, more work in the centreboard. In planning for the re-installation of the centreboard I took a closer look at some of the fitting and decided to replace one. After 30 years in the water the SS flanged pipe that fits into the head of the centreboard was looking in poor shape. Was lucky enough to get a new one made up here and when the board goes back in I will be able to sleep at night not thinking about the possibility of the SS fitting letting go and having to do this work all over again.
You can see the damage in the picture here. I have to say it’s not bad for 30 years in the water but it’s definitely not something one wants to continue sailing with.
30 years of salt water corrosion on the flanged pipe for the centreboard head
So here is the new fitting along with part of the old one which was in good condition. The flanged pipe fits into the head of the centreboard ad then the pin
The replacement SS centreboard shaft, flange and end fittings. Limit the worry!
is inserted from the port side, through the hull and the head of the centreboard to the starboard side where it is held by a bolt threaded into the end of the SS rod. Voila, finished. I am not yet at the installation point as still working on the finishing of the centreboard. Hope to have that finished in a couple of days and then install and back in the water by Friday if all goes well.
That’s if for this weekend.
Painting in the tropics
Everyone thinks the tropics is paradise. In many ways it can be but for working on a boat it presents many challenges especially in the painting department.
Of course, if you are foolish enough, like us, to paint in the SW Monsoon season then there is reason enough to ignore everything I have to say here as the ravings of a lunatic.
So why are we painting? You are quite right to ask us that. However, hauling out provides us with an opportunity to tear things apart, catch up on all the items we have neglected on the ‘to do’ list. One of those is painting part of the interior and the cockpit.
Over time gelcoat loses it’s lustre and loses it’s water repelling characteristics. The cockpit in particular sees very heavy use and after 30 years and various repairs and poor painting history it’s time to ‘spruce it up’.
The challenge is what kind of paint to use. One of the best paints for large flat gelcoated surfaces is a two part polyurethane. Properly applied it provides a very hard surface that should hold its lustre and water repellent characteristics for a minimum of 5 years. The other choice is a one part enamel which is simpler to apply, is not so particular when it comes to weather conditions but doesn’t last as long, nor have quite as hard a finished surface nor have the same water repellent characteristics.
So the question becomes what does one choose. We decided to go with International’s 2 part polyurethane called Perfection and chose Mediterranean White. Oh yes, I forgot to mention colour matching. Ha, ha. Have you ever tried to match old gelcoat with an on the market product. Boat paint isn’t quite the same as houses paints. Fooling around with colours is not an option. International Perfection has about 3 different white paints and none of them match our old, tired and discoloured gelcoat. So we are going for a 2 tone boat since we cannot afford nor have the time to paint the entire topsides
Well all the best laid plans do not necessarily pan out in the tropics. Yes we chose the most difficult paint to work with and one better suited to mechanical sprayers. It is a brushable paint and we are now done applying the undercoat and one topcoat. We need two more topcoats and have been waiting 2 days to move forward. However, the weather is not cooperating. Heh, it’s the monsoon season and who chooses to paint in the wet season?
Ah well, I will post a picture of the end results. This is actually a test. We want to see how difficult the paint is to apply and see how durable it is. After that we will finish off the more finicky areas of the cockpit and perhaps look a little less like a 2 tone boat.
And since it’s raining what better day to write on the blog!
Yard work
And by yard work I do not mean raking leaves or cutting the grass! I do not think I will ever have to do that again.
No, yard work refers to shipyard and our progress is slow. This is not due to us or the shipyard but rather the weather. It is the SW monsoon season here and the weather is challenging.
Our stairway to heaven
Last night it rained monsoonal type rain all night. We are living onboard while we work on all the projects. So, early morning, it is still raining, washroom call beckons, get out of bed, get dressed, head out the hatch, first douse of water from a puddle collected on the awning, umbrella up, down our stairway to heaven, it is dark, step off the second to last step and into a lake.
Yup, a lake. At least the portion of the shipyard where we are located was covered in about a foot of water. Connie was a little shocked as she looked out wondering how she was going to get over to the washrooms but then she saw something float by. Umm, it was part of all my working materials I had stored under cover and under the boat. Even the following day we were wondering where things had gone. Just walk down the yard and they turned up in the ditch.
Rain, rain, rain and more rain
What can one do but laugh? We are not hauled out in Alberta but….So, another couple of days have to be added on to the whole project due to weather. It is not like we have to go back to work next week!
In the meantime the centreboard is under cover and progress is being made. We are on schedule as far as that goes but it is the painting projects that are suffering. I do not want to paint with $100/litre paint and have the paint destroyed by rain.
Progress is the key….
Work on the centreboard is progressing.
Sage on sail 