The rhythms of life in Madagascar

Magical is the first word I can think of on the first few days after clearing in to Nosy Be.  Here the rhythms of the wind dictate the work and movements of people and goods.

The afternoon brings a lovely breeze pushing the dhows out-of-town and suddenly the bay is alive with lateen rigged dhows carrying both cargo and passengers back and forth amongst the islands.

Rushing to get to port

Coming back after a day of fishing

Old and new

Finally off the boat and going home

Captain in training

Happy crew

There are few places left in the world today where sail power forms the principal engine to move goods and people.  Purely from an esoteric point of view the result of this reliance on sail power provides a principal rhythm in the lifestyle. Nothing can be rushed. All is dictated by the movements of nature and one just has to wait for that moment when the gods have decided things can be moved. Frustrating if you’re a tourist on a 2 week vacation package!

For us it’s a welcome relief from the travails of movement on the wide open seas.  Madagascar has given us a chance to kick back and relax other than to repair damage done on our crossing and repair the engine salt water pump.

We have only had a chance to go to one island other than Nosy Be and that was Nosy Komba. There are quite a few tourists who head over to Nosy Komba as there’s a national park and hikes to walk along.  The town has taken advantage of the influx of potential customers and uses their skills to produce lovely needlework.

Blues

More items for sale

In the meantime, while everyone else is rushing off to the other beautiful anchorages, we sit at anchor hoping the mechanic will appear with the magical parts. Then…